At the culmination of the celebrations, Lady Maslenitsa will wave winter goodbye.
Do you like to make pancakes? Personally, I don’t. My first
pancake is always a flop and so, as a rule, is my last – possibly because I
don’t know how to jiggle the frying pan properly.
To treat yourself to really good pancakes is another matter entirely. Russians
make pancakes fairly often, though not necessarily on the Russian folk festival
immediately preceding Lent known as Maslenitsa. But don’t believe the popular
myth that the Russian tradition is to eat pancakes or blini with spoonfuls of
caviar. The Soviet Union would probably be alive and kicking today if comrades had
enjoyed such luxury – they did not.
Anyway, should you happen by London's Trafalgar Square on Sunday, March 6, the delicious
sweet-smelling pancakes will not be served with black caviar. But don’t worry:
they there will be in abundance, together with pirozhki (small pies). There
will also be many bizarrely dressed Russians resembling living Matryoshka
dolls, and a strolling bear who will give you his paw – if you have the courage
to take it. Meanwhile tuneful balalaikas, folk orchestras and the best voices
on the Russian stage promise to give such a powerful performance that the
Trafalgar Square
pigeons risk going deaf.
What did you expect?
Gulyat means to entertain (sometimes to excess) – and
the Russians are famous for it. To outdrink a Russian, outscream a Russian,
outdance a Russian is a difficult business, indeed. You may suspect Russians of
any sin but dreariness: with them there’s never a dull moment. And during
holidays, such as Maslenitsa, this irrepressible energy is used purely for fun
and amusement.
On the same day, Maslenitsa will be celebrated all over Russia, and at 3pm GMT,
Londoners will be able to wave to fellow party-goers near Red Square via
satellite link. So don’t hesitate to come. This will be the first-ever
celebration of Maslenitsa on Trafalgar Square. Pancakes have never been made at
this famous London landmark – and certainly never by Russian bakers. The idea
of firing up skillets under the protection of Horatio Nelson is the brainchild of
Olga Balakleets, a charming Russian businesswoman who has been importing
Russian culture to Britain for close to 15 years. In the early nineties, Balakleets graduated from London’s Royal College of Music and married “local
lad” Julian Gallant a musician and now the director of the Russian cultural center Pushkin House. She then made a typically feminine decision: She brought what
she loved best from her native Russia to her new home in the UK.
She started her own company for this purpose, Ensemble Productions, and became
an avid promoter and organizer of Russian events, from tours by leading ballet
companies to rock concerts. A self-styled Russian cultural attaché, Olga is
organizing Maslenitsa in London for the third time.
Recipe
Pancake pleasure
Here is the simplest and most popular version of oladi, a
traditional form of Russian pancake.
Ingredients
8 fl oz sour cream
2 tbsp sugar
3 eggs
2 tbsp butter
7 oz plain flour
1/3 tsp baking soda
2/3 tbsp milk
1 pinch salt
Preparation
1. Separate egg yolks and whites. Mix yolks with sugar.
2. In a small pan, melt butter.
3. In a bowl, combine flour, sour cream, salt, butter and egg yolks, stirring
vigorously to form a batter.
4. Add baking soda to milk, then pour into bowl.
5. Whip egg whites, add to bowl, and mix again.
6. Once the batter is ready, place a few dollops (not more than 3-4 inches in
diameter) on a preheated pan and fry briefly on a low/medium heat until
underside is golden brown. Flip and repeat, being careful not to burn. Oladi
should not more than 3/4 of an inch thick.
7. Serve with sour cream, jam or honey. And enjoy!
The first two were held at Potters Field Park, right next to City Hall. This
year, the London Mayor’s office made an even more generous gesture, offering
her Trafalgar Square. Mayor Boris Johnson took into account the substantial
size of the Russian community in London, which he has praised as “enormously
influential – in business, in sport and in culture.” He also rightly remarked: “familiar as we are with Matryoshka dolls and onion domes, there is much
more to this vast nation, which has a rich and varied cultural heritage.”
But why was Maslenitsa chosen to represent Russia in London? “It is a very
happy festival,” said Balakleets. “Farewell to winter, the welcoming of spring and
the sun. It is a time when people go to each other’s houses and forgive each
other all past offences. It is, I think, the most beautiful and most
‘folkloric’ of all the Russian festivals.”
How did she manage to find the funds to underwrite this festival given that
nobody has any money to spare nowadays? Well, everyone chipped in a little: the
London Mayor’s office, the Russian Ministry of Culture, the Moscow City
Government and the Onexim Group, one of the largest private investment funds in
Russia.
However, according to a Russian saying, “You don’t bring your own samovar with
you while visiting a friend.” Then why are Russians coming to visit Londoners
with their own samovar, and even their own pancakes? In order to feel at home
in their friend’s house, of course.
Nobody knows exactly how many Russians live in Britain today. But this much is
clear: there are an awful lot of them. Professor Donald Rayfield, a Chekhov
translator, once joked to me that it had become impossible to have a private
conversation in Russian on the London Tube: invariably there will be a native
Russian speaker in the same carriage.
Britain has become a home from home for (if not the permanent residence of)
hundreds of thousands of Russians. In gratitude for this hospitality, they have
taken to sharing with the British what they have: rich culture and traditions.
People who lived for many decades behind the Iron Curtain are now discovering a
world that had been closed to them. That is why it is so important to Russians
to show themselves and to see others. And to make a foreign country feel like
home – with one’s own samovar, one’s own pancakes, and even one’s own bear.
All rights reserved by Rossiyskaya Gazeta.
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